Monday, August 12, 2013

Back In The USSR

Highlight of the trip so far was Thursday's visit to Lenin's Mausoleum in Red Square.  Having already seen Mao some years back, the goal was to capture the Big 3 dead guys and Lenin completes the second of the cycle (bummer that Uncle Ho was under restoration when I was in Hanoi a few years back).  The lines were long but moved quickly, the only hassle being that everyone had to check both cameras and phones (apparently Lenin is camera shy).  Along the walkway to the mausoleum were numerous gravesites of Soviet dignitaries not deemed important enough to be buried inside the Kremlin.  The viewing was like an out of body experience.  In a dark, dimly lit room, there lie the architect of Communism, Soviet style.  Walked as slowly as possible, but the guards assure that one receives only about a minute of viewing time.

 

Not being content with a mere visit to see Lenin, a few days later we headed over to Novoridichy Cemetery for a look at Khruschev's grave.  This cemetery is quite distant from the Kremlin and served as a spot to put Khruschev out of sight after his death in 1971.  The cemetery was closed until 1987, presumably to keep the public away from the disgraced former leader.  The grave site is now a popular tourist destination among those who remember growing up under the evil shadow of Khruschev.  Was tempted to take off my shoe and smack the grave with it.


 After a gander at Lenin, it was off to Kitai Gorod for a stroll through the old "Chinese" quarter.  In fact, the area was never a Chinatown, but rather the living area of some of the wealthiest Muscovites.
This area is a bit off the beaten tourist path, thus was relaxing and uncrowded.  Saw several old mansions owned by the Romanov's and various banking families and also took a stroll past the famed Bolshoi Theater before lunching at Teremok, a popular local fast food joint specializing in blinis which come either sweet (think blintzes with various fillings) or in the form of what might be called a Russian burrito with various meat and veggie fillings.  They're sizable, delicious and cheap at around $3-4 each, thus very popular among students and the working class.

We've eaten at several Russian restaurants, mostly those specializing in Georgian cuisine which is considered to be the best of Russian cuisine.  Some of the dishes are surprisingly hot and spicy and I was surprised by the liberal usage of cilantro in many dishes.  The old standards like chicken Kiev and beef stroganoff were nowhere to be seen, but I sampled several delicious stews and one strange, but tasty. appetizer that involved tree bark.  Have also enjoyed eating at a chain called "My My", pronounced "Moo Moo", where very good dishes are served cafeteria style; another popular spot amongst the budget conscious and there's one right across the street.

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